We have this thing with lighthouses, and South Stack is a firm favourite, perched on the edge of the Irish Sea.

The first glimpse of South Stack is always exciting. The white tower, the rugged cliffs, and the smell of salt with waves crashing below. Even on a still day, this place has an energy to it. Lighthouses signal adventure, direction, and hope. Maybe that’s why we’re drawn to them. There’s something about them that aligns with sober curiosity ~ swapping the anticipation of alcohol for adventure.

We arrived mid-morning, taking our time on the descent down the 400 steps that lead to the footbridge. All we could hear was the seabirds and the waves. By May and June, the cliffs come alive with thousands of puffins, guillemots, and razorbills ~ so if you’re planning a visit, now is the time to plan it. Bring binoculars if you have them and slow your descent down as the scenes can be quite mesmerising.

After taking it all in, we climbed back up and found a quiet spot away from the path, opened up our snacks, and relaxed. The colour palette of the sea shifted between deep blue and steel grey. Things we notice more when not hungover. 

People sometimes ask to choose between the mountains or the coastline, and it’s hard to decide ~ but with a lighthouse like this, it does even the playing field. 

If you have time to spare, RSPB South Stack is worth a stop. The visitor centre offers a closer look at the wildlife that survives and thrives here, and there are plenty of walking trails around Holyhead Mountain, where you can spot wild ponies and take in the views across to Ireland on a clear day.

We didn’t have time to wait for the light to dip, but Anglesey sunsets never disappoint and are a perfect way to round off the trip. If you're lucky, you might even catch the lighthouse beacon flickering. A reminder that the best adventures don’t need a drink in hand ~ just good company (people or wildlife), a wide open view, and a little light to guide the way.

~ Type of Walk: Steep descent/ascent (400 steps).

~ Parking: South Stack car park or roadside. LL65 1YH.

~ Equipment: Windproof layers, binoculars for the birds, and some snacks.

~ Best Time to Visit: May~June for seabirds.

~ Company: Eimer & the Seabirds

Coordinates: 53.3066° N, -4.7031° W

Photography: Scott Woolley. Images captured on Sony A7iii ~ June 2021.